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 Friday, September 21, 2007
The Melting Arctic
The ice is a living organism. Like the topsoil in a garden, it is the key to the ecosystem. Plankton grows underneath the ice; fish, birds, seals and bears feed on that krill. So many stories are written on this beautiful “blank” canvas! Polar bear tracks crisscross the ice floes, and pressure ridges tell stories written by the wind. Although the ice prevents our approach to the top of Greenland, it is in itself the reward. The ice is absent in many places in the Arctic now; 2007 marked the lowest ice coverage in recorded history. Climate change is evident in our approach to what our maps tell us should be tidewater glaciers, now hanging—having receded back quite a distance from the shore. As part of this International Polar Year expedition (in which our ship plays a part of by collecting water samples and charting new data), it has been my main purpose to pay witness, recording in paintings this rapidly changing landscape. We exit the large ice pack and duck into a wonderful fjord system. Hochstetterbugten is a large bay bounded on the south by Pendulum ÿer, Wollaston Forland, Shannon Island and Hochstetter Forland. We are also at this point entering Greenland’s only national park, which is also the world’s largest park encompassing 972,000 square kilometers. Northeast Greenland National Park is mostly icesheet and mountain tops, but coastal tundra provides excellent habitat for muskox. Bredefjord is a long fjord that we aim to explore on an afternoon expedition; I again paint on the moving ship quickly, using the paint scraper to carve out—of an earth red wash—the etched geologic rhythms and echoes of ice that has retreated to higher ground. Afternoon landings by zodiacs (inflatable boats) give us a chance to explore the valley. Wind made it impossible to set up on the glacial outwash plain, but I aim for the still colorful vegetation and find shelter for a view of the cloud patterns cast along the 1700-meter peaks in the distance. It is well into autumn and a chance to indulge in my warm palette, after so long working with the cool colors from this summer's earlier North Pole trip. I find it's so important to find a comfortable set up, and it is relief and rejuvenating to sit among the blueberries and stunted arctic willow, while an arctic hare muches the dry plants—breaking the incredible silence. The wind has stopped, and the movement now is the mixing of the complementary autumn colours: violet, yellow and orange blue, which bleed into one another on my paper creating warm grays. In this painting Autumn Valley Bredefjord Greenland (see previous blog entry), the values are most important, so to keep the darks dark, I avoid too much water on the brush. This is a problem in cold temperatures when freezing is an issue, a problem I anticipate encountering tomorrow in the high altitude landing on Wordie Glacier. The cold will be welcome in this warming climate! More information:To read about glaciers, visit http://www.swisseduc.ch/glaciers/arctic-islands/arctic-04-en.htmlJames Mann (Jock) Wordie (1889-1962) was a genial British geologist, born in Glasgow; he took part in a number of polar expeditions, most notably with Shackleton on board the Endurance in 1914. Painting from the fly deck, while entering Bredefjord, Greenland
Bredefjord, Greenland (watercolor, 11x15)
Painting Autumn Vallery in Bredefjord, Greenland (Photo by Daisy Gilardini)
 Autumn Vallery, Bredefjord, Greenland (watercolor, 11x15) Greenland - Week 2
9/21/2007 4:31:26 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Painting with Watercolor in the Arctic
Flade Isblink Peninsula is the easternmost point of land in Greenland. Our goal is to reach the northernmost point of land, but ice charts show ominous, multiyear ice along the north and down the east coast. With the limited time given for this expedition, the risk of being trapped gives way to a desire to explore the rarely seen northeastern fjords. We now drift by in 10/10ths ice cover. The satellite Polar Ice Charts are nature’s grand paintings; the charts' huge jagged shapes and patterns are an inspiration. In his briefing this morning, the Captain said that it's not the ice he looks for but the winds and currents. If the forces are not in our favor, the winds will pinch the icebreaker, and it will have nowhere to move. The ice thus slow our progress. Understanding the underlying forces in painting also can influence decisions to avoid being stuck or sunk by dreaded blooms or unwanted backwashes! In painting with watercolor, especially on dry paper, the force of gravity influences the direction of which way the wash will run or the bead will hang. Working on site in this colder climate, I like my paper at fairly steep angle, maybe 45–70 degrees, because I then have control in knowing the bead will always flow down. Painting at this angle will also help me avoid puddles. Pools of standing water can freeze over, or just not dry, in the time I have to paint on site. Also by having paint always draining to the bottom of the paper, I avoid excess buckling of the paper. Nonetheless, it's always important to soak up the gathering water at the bottom to avoid its creeping back up and destroying the bottom part of the painting. I use a Masonite board that attaches to a photo tripod. I can thus change the angle of the board and can paint standing or sitting. With bull dog clips I attach my homemade folder, made out of plastic corrugate (neutral grey in color). The folder is 16 x 22 inches, so I can put several half sheets inside. Without having to pre-stretch the sheet of 140-lb. Winsor & Newton cold-pressed paper, I secure it on the outside of the folder, again with clips. If I use tape to subdivide a sheet or create clean borders, it's best to pre-tape indoors where it's warm. Tape will not come of the roll without tearing when it gets really cold. As for water—I hang a collapsible water container on one of the clips. At Flade Isblink Peninsula, the easternmost point of land in Greenland, the farthest north we will achieve on this journey, 80°54.5’N, 13°58.5’W, it's snowing horizontally, but it's balmy for this place, just at the freezing point! Nonetheless, the wind chill makes it painful on the fingertips. In this case, I place the easel into the wind and lean it against the backpack (which can fit my painting folder). I place the painting inside the folder but keep it open with a clip to create a snow deflector. Snow, sleet, dust and jacket sleeve all still get into the painting, which makes it all the more valuable as and record of the whole experience! On this 15x22-inch sheet, the paint is not quite dry, nor is the painting finished before we have to pack up and head back to the ship. Sometime I will use spacers like twigs or, in these extreme environments, flat stones to prevent the painting from being blotted when stuck into a folder. However, in this case, packing the wet painting, which is mostly of rocks, creates an interesting effect. When I place the painting on a clean sheet and peel it apart later in the thawing-out process, I like the variations that have occurred. Of historical note, on September 6, 1909, Robert Edwin Peary transmitted the news that he had reached the North Pole with Matthew Henson and an Eskimo sledgeparty on 6 April 1909. One of the Eskimos was named Oodaq, which became the name of the northernmost island on Earth. More information:
Geographers adjust their concepts just as mapmakers react to changing conditions when they revise maps. To read about the changing topography of Greenland, visit http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/01/16/news/warm.phpScientists are reporting a severe retreat of Arctic ice; see the report in the New York Times at http://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/21/science/21arctic.html?_r=1&adxnnl=1&oref=slogin&adxnnlx=1190388862-tykhgBNWp7pn7XikMzqhOg Flade Isblink Peninsula, Greenland (watercolor, 15x22) Painting at the farthest north, Flade Isblink Peninsula (Photo by Daisy Gilardini) Easel and snow-shield-painting-set-up, Flad Isblink Peninsula, Greenland (Photo by David Mceown)
Greenland - Week 2
9/21/2007 9:38:36 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Northbound to the Ice Edge
As the Kapitan Khelbnikov reaches top speed, we plow northbound to the ice edge. I give the eager passengers the next workshop on “shape seeing.” We are treated to the Northern Lights in the evening, as we make are way to Scoresby Sund for an early morning supply stop. Sunrise is 3:32 am; sunsets at 6:24 pm. Some daylight has vanished as we head north, but the sun is lower in the sky, making for great light and shadows.
David McEown painting at Scoresby Sund (photo by Daisy Gilardini) Scoresby Sund (watercolor, 8x22) by David McEownMore information:
Greenland is one of the best places in the world to see Aurora Borealis or the Northern Lights, a phenomenon caused by the collision between particles electrically charged by the sun and atoms in the earth's atmosphere. The Inuit people believed that when the Northern Lights were dancing in the sky, the dead were playing football with a walrus skull. Charted by William Scoresby in 1822, Scoresby Sund is the longest fjord in the world and one of the deepest. A fjord is a long, narrow estuary with steep sides, made when a glacial valley is flooded by the sea.
Greenland - Week 2
9/19/2007 3:45:33 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Ammassalik (Tasiilaq)
We visit the colourful village of Ammassalik. There are very few towns along the isolated east coast, which is vastly different in climate and culture from that of western Greenland. Since we'll only be onshore for four hours, I have a good walk around town and up to the cairn overlooking the town. A potential painting place, but light is flat and I am always curious to see what's up in the valley. Late wildflowers seduce me to stay up in the warm hills until the hordes of flies eliminate the desire to undo the paint kit. Chased by the biting hordes, I head back to the breezy, cool lookout and find a composition of a few coloured houses juxtapositioned by a large grounded iceberg. Drawing is all I have time for with the HB pencil, with notations on light direction, values, and hues, then it's time to pack before a large cruise ship comes ashore with 500 people.This will be our last look at a town before setting sail for the northernmost point of land in the world. The ice charts show very thick ice, 10/10ths coverage in our path. We therefore plan to head east farther out to sea and follow the ice edge north, before cutting back into the ice pack. Our days at sea will allow time for some workshops, of which out of the 90 passengers, 15 are very keen on painting and thus make the lounge a hive of creativity.
Into the jaws of ice! The ice chart reveals a 10 out of 10 degree of coverage of ice, represented by the red pink color. The Kapitan Khlebnikov plows its way through sea ice.More information:
Around 877 AD, 1170 years ago, Gunnbjörn Ulfsson made a voyage from Iceland and was blown off course. Driven to the west, he encountered new land on the east coast of Greenland, probably near what is now known as Gunnbjornarsker, close to Ammassalik. The highest peak of Greenland, and the highest peak in the Arctic, is named Gunnbjørn Fjæld (3693 meters) after this pioneering explorer.
Greenland - Week 2
9/19/2007 1:44:47 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, September 17, 2007
Painting onboard a Moving Ship
We again awake to the common fogs and calm, silver waters that reflect mirror images of the low flying seabirds. I prepare the outdoor painting kit, as we anticipate entering the Prins Christian Sund. This spectacular, often ice-choked, channel is a shortcut around the southern tip of Greenland; the Sund displays jagged peaks that rise 1600 to 1800 meters from the ocean. I place the easel and tools at the bow of the now sun-filled ship. As we enter the channel, the fog lifts. Thus starts the first challenge for the painter, which is the torture of deciding: should I just take photographs of this moving landscape for reference as the ship passes through the channel, or should I try to pull off a few short sketches? Doing both would be the answer in this case. I do shoot reference material with a digital SLR; these reference photos will come in handy, because I can review the shapes later inside on the display board, if I need to resolve some painting problems or start a new painting. Painting, however, is why I am here, and experience has taught me that for painting on a moving ship through a tight channel, I’ll do a very simple light pencil drawing, focusing on compositions that I can catch sight of farther ahead. By the time I’m ready to paint it, we are much closer. If it has not already gone past, I will divide my half sheet (15 x22) in half with painter’s tape so that I can have two paintings on the go at once. Thus, while I am waiting for a layer to dry, I can start another. Often it helps to work off the fly deck, where I can have a 360-degree view. It seems as if I often find better compositions behind the ship. Whenever I engage in discussions with photographers onboard, we always hit on the subject of truthfulness. Are we trying to record one split second in time or are we trying to express the whole experience? For me a painting from a moving ship is a response to the many different features and angles we encounter over time and we weave together—with feeling and memory—from our experience as artists. This compression of time and space expressed through the artist’s hand and placed on paper results in a truthful piece of art. However, the captain does play tricks with my overconfidence, as we navigate through this archipelago. More than once have I started to compose some scene in one direction, while he turns the ship in the opposite—obliterating the view. After exchanging a few “friendly” gestures directed toward the bridge, I resort to the camera for another reference shot and await the next corner.
Peaks of Prins Christian Sund (Photo by Daisy Gilardini)
 Prins Christian Sund, Greenland #3 (watercolor, 11x15) by David McEown Greenland - Week 2
9/17/2007 8:52:56 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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